Purging

Ready, set, retinoid: surviving the purge

• You've finally decided to add a retinoid to your skincare routine. Smart move! Whether you're tackling stubborn acne, fading dark spots, or looking to smooth fine lines, retinoids are one of the most scientifically-backed ingredients in dermatology. But here's the thing nobody warns you about: your skin might get worse before it gets better.
• Don't panic. This temporary phase is completely normal, and understanding what's happening can help you push through to clearer, healthier skin. Let's break down everything you need to know about starting retinoids, from the dreaded purging phase to building a routine that actually works.

What is skin purging?

• Skin purging sounds scary, but it's actually a sign that your retinoid is doing its job. When you start using a retinoid, your skin begins turning over cells much faster than usual. All those clogged pores that were lurking beneath the surface? They're now making their grand exit, often in the form of breakouts.
• This process typically lasts 2-3 weeks, though some people may experience it for up to 6 weeks. The key difference between purging and a regular breakout is location. Purging happens in areas where you normally break out, while reactions to new products tend to pop up in unusual places.
• Signs you're purging include:
  • Increased breakouts in your usual problem areas
  • Blackheads and whiteheads coming to the surface
  • Skin that looks temporarily worse than when you started
  • Dryness or mild irritation
  Remember, purging is temporary. Your skin is essentially fast-tracking months of congestion in a matter of weeks.

• Do all people purge?

• Nope, not everyone goes through purging, so don't stress if it doesn't happen to you! Whether or not your skin purges often depends on the type of product you're using and how your skin naturally reacts. Ingredients like retinoids, AHAs, and BHAs are more likely to trigger purging because they speed up cell turnover. If your skin is already pretty balanced or you're introducing a new product very gently, you might skip the purge phase altogether. The important thing to remember is that everyone's skin is different – some people purge, some don't, and both are totally normal.

Can you avoid purging?

• You can't completely skip the purging phase, but you can definitely make it more manageable. The key is starting slow and supporting your skin through the transition.

• Start low and go slow

• Begin with the lowest strength available and use it just once or twice a week. Your skin needs time to build tolerance. Jumping straight into nightly use with a high-strength formula is a recipe for irritation.

• Buffer your retinoid

• Apply a gentle moisturizer before your retinoid to create a protective barrier. This technique, called buffering, slows down absorption slightly but reduces irritation. You can also apply moisturizer after your retinoid for extra hydration.

• Avoid sensitive areas

• Keep retinoids away from the delicate skin around your eyes and mouth, where irritation is more likely. These areas have thinner skin and are more prone to dryness and flaking.

• Never skip sunscreen

• Retinoids make your skin more sensitive to UV damage. Use SPF 30 or higher every single day, even when it's cloudy. This isn't negotiable.

Building the perfect retinoid routine

• Your skincare routine needs to support your skin through the retinoid adjustment period. Strip things back to basics and focus on gentle, hydrating products.

• Evening routine:

• 1. Cleanse gently with a mild, non-foaming cleanser
  2. Apply retinoid to clean, dry skin (or over moisturizer if buffering)
  3. Moisturize with a rich, fragrance-free cream

• Morning routine:

• 1. Gentle cleanse (you can even just rinse with water)
  2. Moisturize with a hydrating day cream
  3. Apply SPF 30+ as your final step

• What to avoid:

• • Exfoliating acids (AHA, BHA) during your first few weeks
  • Physical scrubs or brushes
  • Harsh, drying cleansers
  • Other active ingredients until your skin adjusts

• The sandwich technique for sensitive skin

• If your skin is feeling a bit too sensitive or you're new to retinoids, the sandwich technique is an absolute game-changer. Here's how it works:
• 1. Start with moisturizer – Before applying your retinoid, smooth on a thin layer of a gentle, hydrating moisturizer onto clean, dry skin. This creates a protective buffer.
  2. Apply your retinoid – Once the moisturizer has settled (give it a minute or two), apply a pea-sized amount of your retinoid evenly across your face.
  3. Seal the deal with more moisturizer – Finish by layering another coat of moisturizer on top. This helps lock in hydration and keeps irritation at bay.
• The sandwich technique gives you all the benefits of your retinoid without the pesky redness or peeling, making it perfect for anyone with sensitive skin or just starting their retinoid journey. Keep it gentle and stay consistent!
• Your skin will likely feel drier than usual, so don't be afraid to moisturize more frequently. Some people find applying a hydrating serum under their moisturizer helpful during the adjustment period.

When to see improvement

• Most people start seeing positive changes around the 6-8 week mark, with significant improvement by 12 weeks. The timeline depends on what you're treating and which retinoid you're using.
• For acne, you might notice fewer new breakouts after the initial purging phase. Hyperpigmentation typically starts fading around 8-12 weeks, while fine lines and texture improvements can take 3-6 months to become noticeable.
• If you're still experiencing severe irritation, excessive dryness, or worsening breakouts after 6-8 weeks, it might be time to reassess. You may need to reduce frequency, switch to a gentler formula, or consult a dermatologist.

Red flags: when purging becomes a problem

• While purging is normal, severe reactions aren't. Contact a dermatologist if you experience:
• • Painful, cystic breakouts in new areas
  • Severe burning or stinging that doesn't improve
  • Persistent redness or swelling
  • Skin that becomes increasingly sensitive over time
• These signs suggest your skin isn't tolerating the retinoid well, and you may need professional guidance to adjust your routine.

Your skin transformation awaits

• Starting a retinoid requires patience, but the results speak for themselves. Clearer skin, improved texture, and a more even complexion are worth pushing through the temporary adjustment period.
• Remember, good skincare isn't about quick fixes or miracle products. It's about consistent use of proven ingredients like retinoids that actually work. Your future self will thank you for sticking with it through the awkward purging phase.
• Ready to start your retinoid journey with expert guidance? Consult with a dermatologist who can recommend the right formula and strength for your specific skin concerns. Because while purging might be inevitable, suffering through it alone isn't.